大家好：
很长一段时间，没有在这发表过文章，这段期间，由于眼睛长期看电脑，用眼过度，而且还感染了结膜炎，所幸经多日休养后，也已康复，这次我要发表的新文章，是属于电脑史前时代的产物，APPLE II，各位都知道，在整个80年代，苹果公司靠着创办人贾伯斯的先跑先赢，在1976年推出APPLE I之后，一直到80年代中期后，都一直是所谓的主流电脑，但到了1984年，苹果推出了划时代的macintosh(麦金塔)电脑之后，也因为本身成本的考量，遂将APPLE II停产，所以APPLE II就像历史上短暂的王朝一样，但留下的却是那珍贵而又具有历史价值的文物及历史
前不久，在麦金塔的专业讨论区oikos上，有个收藏家俱乐部专栏，有位傅立叶先生，个人相当佩服的改装大师，他从国外ebay购入了一台APPLE II GS，花了六千大洋，但整个机器内的记忆卡，甚至于坊间的CF卡，都被他改到电脑内了，小弟看了真是啧啧称奇，自叹不如，这样的改装，应该也让他省下不少荷包吧，其中有一篇是摇捍的改装，这点就让我很好奇，由于内容过于专业，小弟只好求助于一些专业人士，试图解开一些达文西密码，但后来经国外网站 applefritter的询问下，才知道国外写的改装内容，不过它的方式是制作一个小盒式的转接器，由于之前我有改过电源的经验，对于rewire这类的事情，可算是易如反掌，国外的网站上的内容，当然以小弟的破英文来说，可不知翻了多少次的字典，才略知一二，甚至还得问问干翻译的哥哥，不过艰涩难懂的专有名词，还是翻不出来的
想必大家对于傅立叶的改摇捍文章，一定记忆犹新，说真的，对于要开壳来焊接这档事，似乎是困难些，还不如照着国外网站，照着说明一步一步改转换器，对照傅本身的文章内容而言，似乎多点令人难解的理论，所以我当下就决定，不让傅专美于前，自己也搞个研发转接头，让大家也能用简单的方式，享受DIY的乐趣
我们就来看看国外网站的内容
004- How can I make a PC-to-Apple Joystick converter?
If you are looking for the best stick at the best price for your Apple II,building a simple PC-to-Apple2 joystick converter is the way to go. Practically every computer stuff store carries PC sticks and you will have a wide selection of brands and models from which to choose.
Note: The converter detailed here will not work with "auto-fire" circuits included in some PC joysticks. If you use an auto-fire stick with this converter,"auto-fire"should be switched Off.
For a modified design which supports both auto-fire and non auto-fire operation see FAQs Resource R030PCA2RF.GIF.
My PC stick is a standard CH Products "FlightStick". A resistance measurement produced a disconcerting revelation: the X and Y pots top-out around 100k Ohms-- 50k less than a standard Apple II stick! Fortunately, you can compensate for the difference just fine by adding a bit of capacitance. The finished converter is shown below:
To PC Stick To Apple II Or to 16-pin IC plug
15-pin Dsub 9-pin Dsub ribbon cable to
female connector male connector internal Game socket
[1] [4] and [5] ----------[2] +5V [ 1]
[2] ----------------------[7] Button 0 [ 2]
[3] ----------------------[5] X-axis [ 6]
[6] ----------------------[8] Y-axis [10]
[7] ----------------------[1] Button 1 [ 3]
[3] Ground [ 8]
On the Apple II side ... 9-Pin 16-Pin
add 680 Ohm resistor between [7] & [3] [ 2] & [ 8]
add 680 Ohm resistor between [1] & [3] [ 3] & [ 8]
add .01 uF cap* between [5] & [3] [ 6] & [ 8]
Optional: for fine-tuning,
add a 500k trim pot
in series with the cap.
add .01 uF cap* between [8] & [3] [10] & [ 8]
Optional: for fine-tuning,
add a 500k trim pot
in series with the cap.
*Note: The Capacitors compensate for smaller R range of PC sticks.The C values are approximate. There is some variation in the built-in capacitance for each Apple II and a ".01 uF" cap may be off by 20% or more.
For standard 100k Ohm PC sticks, picking a ".01 uF" cap pretty well guarantees you will be able to cover the full Apple II X and Y range (0-255). To make sure and to get a wide active swing, it's a good idea to use clips to attach caps and check performance using the program below.
A pictorial 'diagram' of this converter is available. For the pictorial, see FAQs Resource R029PCA2XRF.GIF.
For checking and adjusting stick performance on your Apple II, use a program which continuously reads and displays X and Y stick values. The program below does this and displays "B0" when Button 0 is pushed and "B1" when Button 1 is pushed. Do a CTRL-C to exit.
20 PRINT "X= "; PDL(0); TAB(15); "Y= ";PDL(1); TAB(30);
30 IF PEEK(49249)>127 THEN PRINT " B0";
40 IF PEEK(49250)>127 THEN PRINT " B1";
50 PRINT: GOTO 20
Note: If your Apple II uses an accelerator chip or board, make sure that it "slows down" for joystick accesses or just set Speed to"Normal" (1MHz).
Most likely, after X and Y centering is set (around 128) you will find that the a stick tops-out too early in the X-max and/or Y-max direction. For best control precision, what you want is for extreme values to occur near the extremes of stick movement:
X (horizontal) Left= 0 Right= 255
Y (vertical) Up= 0 Down= 255
This way, you have lots of active swing which makes graphics work and playing most games much easier.
If you included the trim pots in your converter, adjusting for maximum active swing will be easy so long as you can get to the max 255 values with the pots at lowest resistance. (Increasing the resistance acts like lowering the value of the connected capacitor.) If your converter does not include the trim pots, experiment with swapping in capacitance values between .002 uF and .01 uF to get the best control 'spread'.
The converter I built fit inside heat-shrink tubing. Putting it in a small plastic box may be better. You could mount the trim pots (and/or switches with fixed "trim resistors") and select between settings for a 'Fast', short swing, 'hot' Game Stick and a 'Normal', full swing 'cool' Game/Graphics Stick.
想必英文不错的各位，应该看得懂本篇的内容，最早期的pc game port，是借助当时的音效卡上的midi port，当成它的device，我们也称为d-sub or db15，本篇图表上，主要有两种的改法，{dy}种由于过于复杂，小弟实验失败，第二个图表，就是本篇的主旨，pc joystick to apple II converter，文章的大意是说，pc端和apple II端，主要摇捍上少了50k的电阻，其实以pc joystick 和apple II的差异性来说，并不会太大，所以只要加几个电容和电阻，就可以使用了，当然，这篇文章改装的主要是有x,y轴的大支摇捍，以下的game pad，由于电路不同，所以接上后，是不相容的，小弟接上后，则是无法开机
game pad摇捍
小弟端详了这篇文章许久，后来终于看懂了，但由于十年前购买的摇捍，全都送人，为了实验，只好上露天买了一支，孰料当时没有仔细看清楚文章中auto fire摇捍的意思，贸然了买了一支gamepad，插上自制的转接器，居然没有开机画面，怎么办呢??当然又重回露天，买了一支文章所说的飞行摇捍，本想搞的是一支传统的简易型摇捍，但露天全是飞行摇捍，也只好用它来试试啰
今天的主角，飞行摇捍
我照图表自己制作的转接器接上后，居然操作非常正常，后来自己实验，试着不接任何电阻与电容，结果游戏中，不是左边方向无法操作，就是拉下边的方向，结果是往中间方向，这就证明，电容和电阻的重要性，由于电阻和电容，没有正负极之分，所以我们就直接rewire和焊电阻电容即可
焊接制作过程
各位看到这篇文章的关键重点，就是那张改pin脚的图，图上明确的说明，pc和apple II对应的脚位，再看看图上9pin与15pin中接头的1-9 and 1-15 pin脚位置对应方向，先把线接好，再来焊电阻和电容
apple II端子上的pin 3是接地，所有电阻电容，都要焊在这个脚位上，我们用一条细电线焊在此，所有电容电阻全焊在这条接地线上
电容电阻另一边则是焊在pc-7pin,apple2-1pin(电阻),pc-2pin,apple2-7pin(电阻)电容部分pc-3pin,apple2-5pin,pc-2pin,apple2-7pin，这部分我的做法就是，用尖嘴钳，分别剥开这四条线，弄出一缺口，露出电丝，然后各自焊上电阻电容，再用绝缘胶带黏好，也就可以了，不过做出来丑是一定会的，但怎么说，能用就好啦
说完焊接过程，再下来谈谈转接盒的制作
电钻、斜口钳及小锉刀
一公9pin apple II接头及一母的15pin pc port
已完成的牵线及焊接电阻及电容部分
半成品已做好，剩下就是，找个壳固定，也好插拔，我们来看看，制作小盒子的过程
从外面买的小盒，由于过长，我们要用铝刀割掉一部分
对照长度剪裁好的盒子
再下来就是来对对apple II gs上的放置方式，各位看到没??由于盒子的宽度较大，所以要适当的修剪，才能放得进9pin port适当位置
剪裁好的小盒子
机器上的game port位置裁好后，我们还要修剪放入端子头的位置出来，同样用铝刀来割出一个半弧形
端子头必需是放在外面，不能放在塑胶盒的边缘内，否则，插在game port内，就不能xx插进去，我们用电钻用四个洞，两个端子旁各两个洞，用魔鬼束带绑好
鉴于现在的转接头，都有个指示灯，我们也制作一下吧，找出上面英文说明的图表上，有5v和接地(ground)，把它们焊接进去
原来盒子的上盖，边边剪后，盖上用胶带黏好，就大功告成了
接上电脑后，led发光，代表正常运作中
我们来看看游戏中操作的画面吧
退后正常
前进也正常
button 0正常，方向也正常
button 0 y轴的下操作正常
button 0 x轴往上正常
button 1 y轴往下正常
所有摇捍的操作都相当正常，实验成功，一个小小转接器，当然，制作这个最重要的就是经费了，我们看看整个转接头花了多少钱
一个15pin母头 $6
一个9pin公头 $5
两个小盒子 $39
电阻5个 $1
电容2个 $1
(非买品) 摇捍 $170
(非买品) gamepad $100
total $322
这个价钱够便宜吧，其实不算摇捍的话，也就52元，如果加上一些工具，电钻说真的，买个扁钻也行，锉刀和一个铝刀，算算也约30元左右，加加也不到100 元，一个转接器就可以让你不用再上ebay，付个至少10元以上美金的运费，还有得标的金额，还要等上一个xx多的时间，才会到的摇捍，是不是很方便呢???ebay上的东西，许多不是抬高运费，就是出售不良品，记得{dy}次买摇捍，是买原厂苹果出品的，结果就是个不良品，很难想像吧，摇捍这么不容易坏的东西，ebay都能卖出不良品，实在有够厉害的，小弟最近常常用许多的游戏来试自己的飞行摇捍，不知是不是本身摇捍的关系，操作起来还是要稍微调整一下，不过整个操作起来，还是不错的
pc joystick由于本身结构上，由APPLE II大致相同，所以比较好改，至于说到键盘或滑鼠部分，这就牵涉到许多繁杂的电路问题，如果重新rewire的话，也是没什么作用的，市售的游戏机 xbox上的摇捍，它的就是pc usb摇捍上的5V data+ data- ground，所以接头剪掉，买个usb公头来照图表焊接，也就可以在pc上使用了
想必经历过苹果二号改朝换代的各位，最年轻应该也是为人父的年纪，想想童年时代玩的游戏，现在也可说是非常的怀念吧，希望有APPLE II的朋友们，看了这些改造文章，或许你也能自己DIY哦，体验一下乐趣，做好后，你就能在露天，买个game port摇捍，也能重拾往日玩游戏的快乐时光
六月份小弟会在冰果室提供的场地滴咖啡展机，所有网路上发表过的改机内容，都会在现场，一一为大家解说，如果有兴趣的粉丝们，可以莅临现场，也欢迎大家一同来展机，共襄盛举，相信有你的参与，节目会更加精彩，谢谢大家
(有玩apple II各位大大，也可向我索取转换器)
(本文在我的改机部落格同时发表)
第二篇 pc模拟器上的摇捍改装
s most Apple II emulator users know, there are a number of arcade style games that just do not work like they should running under AppleWin, Oasis, and other popular PC programs. For instance, you slam the stick down to dodge a worm in Serpentine and keep going straight-- very frustrating!
http://img159.imagevenue.com/img.php?im … _179lo.jpg
The problem is in the routine which reads your joysick. It faithfully emulates an Apple II; so, it treats the joystick input as though it comes from an Apple II joystick. Unfortunately for you (when you want to dodge that worm in Serpentine), the stick is probably a standard PC type which can not output the 150k Ohms required for recognition of "Down" or "Right" movement in quite a few Apple II games.
Changing the in-ROM monitor routine which reads the joystick X and Y inputs will help in a few cases. However, it will have no effect upon the operation of games which do not use the monitor routine.
You could track down and modify the 'stick read and/or 'stick interpret routine in each problem game; but, that would be a very time consuming project.
Software Apple-izing
One good workaround suggested by Delfs is to go to your PC Control Panel and select "Gaming Options" (or whatever it may be called on your PC). For your joysticks, click on "Properties" and pick "Settings" to recalibrate. (Again, some of this may vary a bit depending upon the particular PC.)
Specifically, the trick is to under-calibrate. So, when, told to move the stick in a circle, do not go out as far as you can. Instead, move it in a small circle (2 or 3 circles is enough). Now, when you do the "Test", you should be able to reach the sides of the box without going more than about half way out with the stick in any direction.
The final step is to check and adjust your stick using an Apple II joystick adjustment utility running on your Apple II emulator. The Joystick Check program included on the TnilUtil.dsk disk image is a good choice.
Boot TnilUtil.dsk on your emulator. Using the joystick's adjustments, set centered Horizontal and Vertical values to about 128 and check to make sure both ranges go from 0 through 255. (If you can't get the full range, quit the emu, go back to the PC Control Panel, and recalibrate using
a smaller circle.)
About the only drawbacks of this approach are 1- getting a good small-circle calibration can be tricky with some sticks; and 2- unless you recalibrate, your stick will have a pretty small active range for PC games.
(That is, it will reach extreme values with a relatively small movement in any direction.)
Hardware Apple-izing
A fairly easy fix is to modifiy your PC stick so that it can look more like an Apple II joystick. The diagram below shows how.
What's going on here is that capacitors are being used to increase the RC time constant to simulate a higher R value. When the X or Y pot outputs zero (or nearly zero) R, you will still get "0"; but, higher R's will, in effect, be increased.
Each capacitor is connected to the joysick tab connected to a non-ground lead-- i.e. the tab with a wire going to pin 3 or pin 6. Usually, this will be the center tab of the pot. Another clue is that ground leads are usually black and a non-ground lead will typically be some other color.
A value of 0.01 uF seems to be about right for getting the max output possible for full-down and full-right stick positions. Check the output before closing up the case by running a joystick adjustment program, like Joystick Check, on your Apple II emulator.
Running the adjustment program, you should be able to set the stick- centered value at about 128 for Horizontal and Vertical and get an output value of 255 for max down and max right positions. If you do not, try a slightly higher value capacitor (e.g. 0.15 uF or 0.02 uF).
A DPST switch (double-pole, single-throw switch) is shown because you may want to switch OFF the 'Apple-izing' when you play PC games. (This will improve the range of active control for the PC games.) The switch should be a small toggle or locking pushbutton type which will mount via a small hole in the joystick case.
Note: Whenever doing any PC Control Panel joystick calibrations, set the switch OFF, to the non-Apple II position. Set the switch ON, to the Apple II position, when checking and fine-tuning on an Apple II emulator and for playing Apple II games on the emulator.
Hardware Apple-izing is more bother up-front. Theadvantage is that changing between Apple II and PC modes requires only flipping a switch and adjusting centering. You do not have to mess with recalibration.
Whichever approach you choose, the acid test is a session of Serpentine, Frogger, etc. on your emulator. As you'll discover, games like these are a lot more fun when you can move in all four directions!
这是另一篇讲述改pc摇捍的文章，只不过是在pc上玩模拟器，通常也会遇到所谓摇捍方向性的问题，所以文章中提到，你有两种方法可以解决，一种是在模拟器上，再去设定，另一种就是....和本篇差不多的意思，自己加电容上去，这次只要焊两个电容，也就可以让摇捍正常运作，就不用在软体上做调整
谢谢收看
第三篇 apple II主机板上的socket 16pin制作串出接头
各位仔细看看这篇文章，有提到所谓的16pin，这个内建的socket game port，我们也可以多加利用，经多日研究，我想也可做出一个外接头，是非常的方便，也是一个创举
我们来看图吧
对照一下，pc接头的位置，再看apple II 16pin socket的脚位
先从光华的电子材料行买个ic脚座，再对照图表，把线焊好，这方面前面文章就已说过，做法xx一致，不用多加赘述
照之前介绍转接头制作一样，我们在它的socket端上接地线(ground)，全部的电阻电容，都焊于此，下图为焊好图
把焊好的脚座插入主板上的插座上，图为机壳内部的样子
半成品已制作完成，接下来就是把它放apple II扩充槽挡板处，gs的设计相当不错，这个空间正好可以用锣丝、锣帽把它固定好，不过距离长点，我们必需割个小压克力板延伸，还有对准位置，用电钻钻出个孔，以方便锁锣丝
扩充槽挡板位置锁好锣丝，固定好之后就完成了
我们插插摇捍接头看看，要用力点，但还是插进去了
开了电脑，试试游戏，xx没有问题，apple II在早期{dy}代，它是没有内建的所谓的9pin port，但内建的game socket，却是一直到{zh1}的gs，却都还有保留下来，再谈到9pin的介面，早期还有研发出滑鼠，但最多使用的还是摇捍，一般的9pin摇捍来说，晚期有推出所谓的apple II & PC两种电脑使用，这部分由于apple II摇捍都有提供了转接头，或是双接头，所以也没有研究的必要性
基本上，能够使用socket转pc port，或是9pin转16pin，都是蛮方便使用的，虽然现今的db15摇捍并不多，但还是在二手市场还是找得到，晚期厂商甚至还推出usb and db15双介面的摇捍，但这类的摇捍都不便宜就是了，现今的db15也有推出转usb的转接头，市面上当然也买得到，根据国外的网站上所说，好像是可以真的使用usb的摇捍，这部分可能以后有机会的话，再实验看看啰
文章全部实验完成，看完此篇文章的粉丝们，如果也有兴趣的话，不妨真的搞一台apple II玩玩，这方面当然求助于ebay网站，是最快的方式，我想购入机器后，这篇文章当然是{zh0}实验的工具，一来摇捍不用再向ebay买，二来也方便，既简单又实惠，相信此篇文章一定让大家受益良多
(全剧终，再次谢谢收看)
很长一段时间，没有在这发表过文章，这段期间，由于眼睛长期看电脑，用眼过度，而且还感染了结膜炎，所幸经多日休养后，也已康复，这次我要发表的新文章，是属于电脑史前时代的产物，APPLE II，各位都知道，在整个80年代，苹果公司靠着创办人贾伯斯的先跑先赢，在1976年推出APPLE I之后，一直到80年代中期后，都一直是所谓的主流电脑，但到了1984年，苹果推出了划时代的macintosh(麦金塔)电脑之后，也因为本身成本的考量，遂将APPLE II停产，所以APPLE II就像历史上短暂的王朝一样，但留下的却是那珍贵而又具有历史价值的文物及历史
前不久，在麦金塔的专业讨论区oikos上，有个收藏家俱乐部专栏，有位傅立叶先生，个人相当佩服的改装大师，他从国外ebay购入了一台APPLE II GS，花了六千大洋，但整个机器内的记忆卡，甚至于坊间的CF卡，都被他改到电脑内了，小弟看了真是啧啧称奇，自叹不如，这样的改装，应该也让他省下不少荷包吧，其中有一篇是摇捍的改装，这点就让我很好奇，由于内容过于专业，小弟只好求助于一些专业人士，试图解开一些达文西密码，但后来经国外网站 applefritter的询问下，才知道国外写的改装内容，不过它的方式是制作一个小盒式的转接器，由于之前我有改过电源的经验，对于rewire这类的事情，可算是易如反掌，国外的网站上的内容，当然以小弟的破英文来说，可不知翻了多少次的字典，才略知一二，甚至还得问问干翻译的哥哥，不过艰涩难懂的专有名词，还是翻不出来的
想必大家对于傅立叶的改摇捍文章，一定记忆犹新，说真的，对于要开壳来焊接这档事，似乎是困难些，还不如照着国外网站，照着说明一步一步改转换器，对照傅本身的文章内容而言，似乎多点令人难解的理论，所以我当下就决定，不让傅专美于前，自己也搞个研发转接头，让大家也能用简单的方式，享受DIY的乐趣
我们就来看看国外网站的内容
004- How can I make a PC-to-Apple Joystick converter?
If you are looking for the best stick at the best price for your Apple II,building a simple PC-to-Apple2 joystick converter is the way to go. Practically every computer stuff store carries PC sticks and you will have a wide selection of brands and models from which to choose.
Note: The converter detailed here will not work with "auto-fire" circuits included in some PC joysticks. If you use an auto-fire stick with this converter,"auto-fire"should be switched Off.
For a modified design which supports both auto-fire and non auto-fire operation see FAQs Resource R030PCA2RF.GIF.
My PC stick is a standard CH Products "FlightStick". A resistance measurement produced a disconcerting revelation: the X and Y pots top-out around 100k Ohms-- 50k less than a standard Apple II stick! Fortunately, you can compensate for the difference just fine by adding a bit of capacitance. The finished converter is shown below:
To PC Stick To Apple II Or to 16-pin IC plug
15-pin Dsub 9-pin Dsub ribbon cable to
female connector male connector internal Game socket
[1] [4] and [5] ----------[2] +5V [ 1]
[2] ----------------------[7] Button 0 [ 2]
[3] ----------------------[5] X-axis [ 6]
[6] ----------------------[8] Y-axis [10]
[7] ----------------------[1] Button 1 [ 3]
[3] Ground [ 8]
On the Apple II side ... 9-Pin 16-Pin
add 680 Ohm resistor between [7] & [3] [ 2] & [ 8]
add 680 Ohm resistor between [1] & [3] [ 3] & [ 8]
add .01 uF cap* between [5] & [3] [ 6] & [ 8]
Optional: for fine-tuning,
add a 500k trim pot
in series with the cap.
add .01 uF cap* between [8] & [3] [10] & [ 8]
Optional: for fine-tuning,
add a 500k trim pot
in series with the cap.
*Note: The Capacitors compensate for smaller R range of PC sticks.The C values are approximate. There is some variation in the built-in capacitance for each Apple II and a ".01 uF" cap may be off by 20% or more.
For standard 100k Ohm PC sticks, picking a ".01 uF" cap pretty well guarantees you will be able to cover the full Apple II X and Y range (0-255). To make sure and to get a wide active swing, it's a good idea to use clips to attach caps and check performance using the program below.
A pictorial 'diagram' of this converter is available. For the pictorial, see FAQs Resource R029PCA2XRF.GIF.
For checking and adjusting stick performance on your Apple II, use a program which continuously reads and displays X and Y stick values. The program below does this and displays "B0" when Button 0 is pushed and "B1" when Button 1 is pushed. Do a CTRL-C to exit.
20 PRINT "X= "; PDL(0); TAB(15); "Y= ";PDL(1); TAB(30);
30 IF PEEK(49249)>127 THEN PRINT " B0";
40 IF PEEK(49250)>127 THEN PRINT " B1";
50 PRINT: GOTO 20
Note: If your Apple II uses an accelerator chip or board, make sure that it "slows down" for joystick accesses or just set Speed to"Normal" (1MHz).
Most likely, after X and Y centering is set (around 128) you will find that the a stick tops-out too early in the X-max and/or Y-max direction. For best control precision, what you want is for extreme values to occur near the extremes of stick movement:
X (horizontal) Left= 0 Right= 255
Y (vertical) Up= 0 Down= 255
This way, you have lots of active swing which makes graphics work and playing most games much easier.
If you included the trim pots in your converter, adjusting for maximum active swing will be easy so long as you can get to the max 255 values with the pots at lowest resistance. (Increasing the resistance acts like lowering the value of the connected capacitor.) If your converter does not include the trim pots, experiment with swapping in capacitance values between .002 uF and .01 uF to get the best control 'spread'.
The converter I built fit inside heat-shrink tubing. Putting it in a small plastic box may be better. You could mount the trim pots (and/or switches with fixed "trim resistors") and select between settings for a 'Fast', short swing, 'hot' Game Stick and a 'Normal', full swing 'cool' Game/Graphics Stick.
想必英文不错的各位，应该看得懂本篇的内容，最早期的pc game port，是借助当时的音效卡上的midi port，当成它的device，我们也称为d-sub or db15，本篇图表上，主要有两种的改法，{dy}种由于过于复杂，小弟实验失败，第二个图表，就是本篇的主旨，pc joystick to apple II converter，文章的大意是说，pc端和apple II端，主要摇捍上少了50k的电阻，其实以pc joystick 和apple II的差异性来说，并不会太大，所以只要加几个电容和电阻，就可以使用了，当然，这篇文章改装的主要是有x,y轴的大支摇捍，以下的game pad，由于电路不同，所以接上后，是不相容的，小弟接上后，则是无法开机
game pad摇捍
小弟端详了这篇文章许久，后来终于看懂了，但由于十年前购买的摇捍，全都送人，为了实验，只好上露天买了一支，孰料当时没有仔细看清楚文章中auto fire摇捍的意思，贸然了买了一支gamepad，插上自制的转接器，居然没有开机画面，怎么办呢??当然又重回露天，买了一支文章所说的飞行摇捍，本想搞的是一支传统的简易型摇捍，但露天全是飞行摇捍，也只好用它来试试啰
今天的主角，飞行摇捍
我照图表自己制作的转接器接上后，居然操作非常正常，后来自己实验，试着不接任何电阻与电容，结果游戏中，不是左边方向无法操作，就是拉下边的方向，结果是往中间方向，这就证明，电容和电阻的重要性，由于电阻和电容，没有正负极之分，所以我们就直接rewire和焊电阻电容即可
焊接制作过程
各位看到这篇文章的关键重点，就是那张改pin脚的图，图上明确的说明，pc和apple II对应的脚位，再看看图上9pin与15pin中接头的1-9 and 1-15 pin脚位置对应方向，先把线接好，再来焊电阻和电容
apple II端子上的pin 3是接地，所有电阻电容，都要焊在这个脚位上，我们用一条细电线焊在此，所有电容电阻全焊在这条接地线上
电容电阻另一边则是焊在pc-7pin,apple2-1pin(电阻),pc-2pin,apple2-7pin(电阻)电容部分pc-3pin,apple2-5pin,pc-2pin,apple2-7pin，这部分我的做法就是，用尖嘴钳，分别剥开这四条线，弄出一缺口，露出电丝，然后各自焊上电阻电容，再用绝缘胶带黏好，也就可以了，不过做出来丑是一定会的，但怎么说，能用就好啦
说完焊接过程，再下来谈谈转接盒的制作
电钻、斜口钳及小锉刀
一公9pin apple II接头及一母的15pin pc port
已完成的牵线及焊接电阻及电容部分
半成品已做好，剩下就是，找个壳固定，也好插拔，我们来看看，制作小盒子的过程
从外面买的小盒，由于过长，我们要用铝刀割掉一部分
对照长度剪裁好的盒子
再下来就是来对对apple II gs上的放置方式，各位看到没??由于盒子的宽度较大，所以要适当的修剪，才能放得进9pin port适当位置
剪裁好的小盒子
机器上的game port位置裁好后，我们还要修剪放入端子头的位置出来，同样用铝刀来割出一个半弧形
端子头必需是放在外面，不能放在塑胶盒的边缘内，否则，插在game port内，就不能xx插进去，我们用电钻用四个洞，两个端子旁各两个洞，用魔鬼束带绑好
鉴于现在的转接头，都有个指示灯，我们也制作一下吧，找出上面英文说明的图表上，有5v和接地(ground)，把它们焊接进去
原来盒子的上盖，边边剪后，盖上用胶带黏好，就大功告成了
接上电脑后，led发光，代表正常运作中
我们来看看游戏中操作的画面吧
退后正常
前进也正常
button 0正常，方向也正常
button 0 y轴的下操作正常
button 0 x轴往上正常
button 1 y轴往下正常
所有摇捍的操作都相当正常，实验成功，一个小小转接器，当然，制作这个最重要的就是经费了，我们看看整个转接头花了多少钱
一个15pin母头 $6
一个9pin公头 $5
两个小盒子 $39
电阻5个 $1
电容2个 $1
(非买品) 摇捍 $170
(非买品) gamepad $100
total $322
这个价钱够便宜吧，其实不算摇捍的话，也就52元，如果加上一些工具，电钻说真的，买个扁钻也行，锉刀和一个铝刀，算算也约30元左右，加加也不到100 元，一个转接器就可以让你不用再上ebay，付个至少10元以上美金的运费，还有得标的金额，还要等上一个xx多的时间，才会到的摇捍，是不是很方便呢???ebay上的东西，许多不是抬高运费，就是出售不良品，记得{dy}次买摇捍，是买原厂苹果出品的，结果就是个不良品，很难想像吧，摇捍这么不容易坏的东西，ebay都能卖出不良品，实在有够厉害的，小弟最近常常用许多的游戏来试自己的飞行摇捍，不知是不是本身摇捍的关系，操作起来还是要稍微调整一下，不过整个操作起来，还是不错的
pc joystick由于本身结构上，由APPLE II大致相同，所以比较好改，至于说到键盘或滑鼠部分，这就牵涉到许多繁杂的电路问题，如果重新rewire的话，也是没什么作用的，市售的游戏机 xbox上的摇捍，它的就是pc usb摇捍上的5V data+ data- ground，所以接头剪掉，买个usb公头来照图表焊接，也就可以在pc上使用了
想必经历过苹果二号改朝换代的各位，最年轻应该也是为人父的年纪，想想童年时代玩的游戏，现在也可说是非常的怀念吧，希望有APPLE II的朋友们，看了这些改造文章，或许你也能自己DIY哦，体验一下乐趣，做好后，你就能在露天，买个game port摇捍，也能重拾往日玩游戏的快乐时光
六月份小弟会在冰果室提供的场地滴咖啡展机，所有网路上发表过的改机内容，都会在现场，一一为大家解说，如果有兴趣的粉丝们，可以莅临现场，也欢迎大家一同来展机，共襄盛举，相信有你的参与，节目会更加精彩，谢谢大家
(有玩apple II各位大大，也可向我索取转换器)
(本文在我的改机部落格同时发表)
第二篇 pc模拟器上的摇捍改装
s most Apple II emulator users know, there are a number of arcade style games that just do not work like they should running under AppleWin, Oasis, and other popular PC programs. For instance, you slam the stick down to dodge a worm in Serpentine and keep going straight-- very frustrating!
http://img159.imagevenue.com/img.php?im … _179lo.jpg
The problem is in the routine which reads your joysick. It faithfully emulates an Apple II; so, it treats the joystick input as though it comes from an Apple II joystick. Unfortunately for you (when you want to dodge that worm in Serpentine), the stick is probably a standard PC type which can not output the 150k Ohms required for recognition of "Down" or "Right" movement in quite a few Apple II games.
Changing the in-ROM monitor routine which reads the joystick X and Y inputs will help in a few cases. However, it will have no effect upon the operation of games which do not use the monitor routine.
You could track down and modify the 'stick read and/or 'stick interpret routine in each problem game; but, that would be a very time consuming project.
Software Apple-izing
One good workaround suggested by Delfs is to go to your PC Control Panel and select "Gaming Options" (or whatever it may be called on your PC). For your joysticks, click on "Properties" and pick "Settings" to recalibrate. (Again, some of this may vary a bit depending upon the particular PC.)
Specifically, the trick is to under-calibrate. So, when, told to move the stick in a circle, do not go out as far as you can. Instead, move it in a small circle (2 or 3 circles is enough). Now, when you do the "Test", you should be able to reach the sides of the box without going more than about half way out with the stick in any direction.
The final step is to check and adjust your stick using an Apple II joystick adjustment utility running on your Apple II emulator. The Joystick Check program included on the TnilUtil.dsk disk image is a good choice.
Boot TnilUtil.dsk on your emulator. Using the joystick's adjustments, set centered Horizontal and Vertical values to about 128 and check to make sure both ranges go from 0 through 255. (If you can't get the full range, quit the emu, go back to the PC Control Panel, and recalibrate using
a smaller circle.)
About the only drawbacks of this approach are 1- getting a good small-circle calibration can be tricky with some sticks; and 2- unless you recalibrate, your stick will have a pretty small active range for PC games.
(That is, it will reach extreme values with a relatively small movement in any direction.)
Hardware Apple-izing
A fairly easy fix is to modifiy your PC stick so that it can look more like an Apple II joystick. The diagram below shows how.
What's going on here is that capacitors are being used to increase the RC time constant to simulate a higher R value. When the X or Y pot outputs zero (or nearly zero) R, you will still get "0"; but, higher R's will, in effect, be increased.
Each capacitor is connected to the joysick tab connected to a non-ground lead-- i.e. the tab with a wire going to pin 3 or pin 6. Usually, this will be the center tab of the pot. Another clue is that ground leads are usually black and a non-ground lead will typically be some other color.
A value of 0.01 uF seems to be about right for getting the max output possible for full-down and full-right stick positions. Check the output before closing up the case by running a joystick adjustment program, like Joystick Check, on your Apple II emulator.
Running the adjustment program, you should be able to set the stick- centered value at about 128 for Horizontal and Vertical and get an output value of 255 for max down and max right positions. If you do not, try a slightly higher value capacitor (e.g. 0.15 uF or 0.02 uF).
A DPST switch (double-pole, single-throw switch) is shown because you may want to switch OFF the 'Apple-izing' when you play PC games. (This will improve the range of active control for the PC games.) The switch should be a small toggle or locking pushbutton type which will mount via a small hole in the joystick case.
Note: Whenever doing any PC Control Panel joystick calibrations, set the switch OFF, to the non-Apple II position. Set the switch ON, to the Apple II position, when checking and fine-tuning on an Apple II emulator and for playing Apple II games on the emulator.
Hardware Apple-izing is more bother up-front. Theadvantage is that changing between Apple II and PC modes requires only flipping a switch and adjusting centering. You do not have to mess with recalibration.
Whichever approach you choose, the acid test is a session of Serpentine, Frogger, etc. on your emulator. As you'll discover, games like these are a lot more fun when you can move in all four directions!
这是另一篇讲述改pc摇捍的文章，只不过是在pc上玩模拟器，通常也会遇到所谓摇捍方向性的问题，所以文章中提到，你有两种方法可以解决，一种是在模拟器上，再去设定，另一种就是....和本篇差不多的意思，自己加电容上去，这次只要焊两个电容，也就可以让摇捍正常运作，就不用在软体上做调整
谢谢收看
第三篇 apple II主机板上的socket 16pin制作串出接头
各位仔细看看这篇文章，有提到所谓的16pin，这个内建的socket game port，我们也可以多加利用，经多日研究，我想也可做出一个外接头，是非常的方便，也是一个创举
我们来看图吧
对照一下，pc接头的位置，再看apple II 16pin socket的脚位
先从光华的电子材料行买个ic脚座，再对照图表，把线焊好，这方面前面文章就已说过，做法xx一致，不用多加赘述
照之前介绍转接头制作一样，我们在它的socket端上接地线(ground)，全部的电阻电容，都焊于此，下图为焊好图
把焊好的脚座插入主板上的插座上，图为机壳内部的样子
半成品已制作完成，接下来就是把它放apple II扩充槽挡板处，gs的设计相当不错，这个空间正好可以用锣丝、锣帽把它固定好，不过距离长点，我们必需割个小压克力板延伸，还有对准位置，用电钻钻出个孔，以方便锁锣丝
扩充槽挡板位置锁好锣丝，固定好之后就完成了
我们插插摇捍接头看看，要用力点，但还是插进去了
开了电脑，试试游戏，xx没有问题，apple II在早期{dy}代，它是没有内建的所谓的9pin port，但内建的game socket，却是一直到{zh1}的gs，却都还有保留下来，再谈到9pin的介面，早期还有研发出滑鼠，但最多使用的还是摇捍，一般的9pin摇捍来说，晚期有推出所谓的apple II & PC两种电脑使用，这部分由于apple II摇捍都有提供了转接头，或是双接头，所以也没有研究的必要性
基本上，能够使用socket转pc port，或是9pin转16pin，都是蛮方便使用的，虽然现今的db15摇捍并不多，但还是在二手市场还是找得到，晚期厂商甚至还推出usb and db15双介面的摇捍，但这类的摇捍都不便宜就是了，现今的db15也有推出转usb的转接头，市面上当然也买得到，根据国外的网站上所说，好像是可以真的使用usb的摇捍，这部分可能以后有机会的话，再实验看看啰
文章全部实验完成，看完此篇文章的粉丝们，如果也有兴趣的话，不妨真的搞一台apple II玩玩，这方面当然求助于ebay网站，是最快的方式，我想购入机器后，这篇文章当然是{zh0}实验的工具，一来摇捍不用再向ebay买，二来也方便，既简单又实惠，相信此篇文章一定让大家受益良多
(全剧终，再次谢谢收看)
