【xx护肤成分分析】(1)也说盛赞的保湿成分玻尿酸_李小桃_新浪博客

    真有这么神奇吗?

    听说台湾有个达人,出书大吹保湿成分玻尿酸,也有某牛姓的DIY配方师将其神化成保湿奇效,还能抓取700倍水分的成分,更有护肤品配合开发了胶原蛋白类的饮料,貌似长期服用可膨胀xx层细胞一说。玻尿酸,真的这么神奇吗?

 



 

    问题一:玻尿酸和透明质酸、透明质酸钠的关系(这个请自行G或者B吧,太多啦 :))

 

    实验室的透明质酸大分子小分子各种类别的小瓶子,放置在那里一动不动,最近迷恋精油远离化学成分体验到了好的效果。但是看到昨天论坛里,一个MM为自己宝宝配的面霜50g,里面加入1%的透明质酸竟然高达30ml,我吓坏了,后来看到那个MM得意的说,让我的宝宝从小就不缺水,估计这位MM是饱受干皮困扰啊。。。。真为她的宝宝担心,无须等到她在发言,就可以断定,用了这个霜的宝宝脸上肯定皱皱巴巴,因为玻尿酸过量导致肤内水分丧失,无疑!

 

    我长草这个东东的时间早过去了。大概在最早接触到透明质酸看到一些法国美容院注射透明质酸的案例时就一心向往了。玻尿酸这种注射用的组织填充物,用于矫正外伤或青春痘留下xx层的xx,常常可以得到很好的效果。合并肉毒杆菌和玻尿酸可以用于在眼睛及眉毛周围皱纹的xx。另外,在明显的唇鼻纹或是嘴唇、鼻子、下巴的整形上,玻尿酸已经占有了一定的角色。不过这些都只有高价才能消费得起,手术安全非常值得考虑!扯远了~~~~

 

 

      问题二:是否真的有那么神奇的效果?

    保湿是皮肤保养的首要步骤,健康肌肤的含水率应维持在15~20%左右,玻尿酸的保湿效果是胶原蛋白的16倍,保水值可达1000cc/g,是当今文献中公认之{zj0}保湿产品。可是,试用玻尿酸的真实体验者到底有没有收获以上的神奇效果呢?

     透明质酸说到底其保湿的原理,是聚拢水分子,用起来皮肤也觉得粘粘的水水的,但是外用的效果到底如何,是不是真的可以增加皮肤的水分,浓度是否合适,能否和外界环境湿度协调适宜,一切都没有定论,需要靠配方师对人群、地域、肤龄的经验来判断

 

    ——后来热情慢慢冷却,是因为作为皮肤外用,远远达不到注射那样立竿见影的效果。 

 

    毕竟,注射透明质酸除皱是一种物理作用的结果。外敷使用的话,其大分子几乎不太可能透皮吸收,因而无法起到注射时的作用。它的好处主要是为皮肤提供一个富水的环境,可以防止干燥的外界环境对皮肤的不良影响。

 

    有些标注含透明质酸成分的保健品在宣传中声称有“护肤”的作用,理由有些是口服摄入的透明质酸会随着循环系统分布于表皮和xx,弥补原有之不足;还有些认为口服制品经分解后会增加透明质酸合成时前体的水平,从而增加皮肤处含量。

 

    前者的理由几乎不值一驳,透明质酸的分子量在数十万上下,这种巨型分子想要通过口服经由循环系统分布至皮肤几乎是不可能的。后者也并不靠谱,透明质酸的分解与合成是复杂的生物化学过程,口服摄取和体内xx透明质酸最终降解产物是二氧化碳和水。而基本原料———葡萄糖醛酸和乙酰氨基葡萄糖———在透明质酸合成酶的作用下交替连接。这两种物质都来源于葡萄糖。合成酶的活性与含量才是透明质酸产量高低的关键。所以,与其服用含有透明质酸的保健品,不如吃两个大白馒头———馒头里面含有的淀粉转化成丰富的葡萄糖哦,哈哈。

 

 

在evan healy对于这个成分的一些评价中这样说道:

 

Naturally occurring hyaluronic acid (HA) is a biopolymer that is found in greatest concentrations in the vitreous humor of the eye and in synovial fluid of articular joints. It is also found in the skin, connective tissue, etc.

 

As an aesthetician who prefers holistic and uncomplicated skin care, I tend to look at the skin from a unique perspective! I evaluate the effects of an oil or cream on the skin –vs- taking the nutritional substance internally: which has more value and effectiveness for skin health?

 

Generally, my opinion is many of these food-sourced or nutritional ingredients would be more effective if they were taken internally instead of smeared all over the skin…In other words: if you need potassium you don’t rub a banana on your arm.

 

I see many ingredients in skin care formulations that are useless when applied to the skin. Most of the time the molecules are way too large to penetrate the epidermal layer and if by chance they do, then what?

 

While the organ of the skin does interact with the organs of digestion, it’s not a stomach - it’s not able to break down and absorb nutrients the way our digestive system does. There are far more effective ingredients that will improve both the function - as well as appearance. Exercise, for instance, a walk around the block will Increase oxygen and blood circulation, so you’ll not only look better, you’ll feel better too!

 

HA that occurs naturally in the body (and therein lies the secret) acts as intercellular space filler and therefore may have anti aging effects, it supplies a plumping/lubricating action to skin tissue beneficially holding fluids like a reservoir around the cellular wall. But when applied as a product to the surface of the skin, well, I’ve never seen any significant short or long-term improvement.

 

Better to consider, for instance, adding nutritional plant oils (high in GLAs and EFAs) and/or fish oils (high in EPA and DHA) to the diet where they will be absorbed and assimilated into the body’s cells and other organ systems and where the effects will be both seen and felt.

 

Shea Butter, RoseHip Treatment and Pomegranate Repair Serum applied to the skin will also supply significant amounts of essential fatty acids, which have a more holistic and immediate value to the skin’s epidermal layer.

 

   不主张过分夸大用透明质酸的原因还是在于怀疑其功效,不喜欢吹出来神话让人失望的感觉,同时,我如果用,也不会在花水里面加,只是花水补水+面油/面霜锁水保湿。再加上多喝水多吃菜。觉得用油或者霜的锁水功能更xx、xxx,并且能够看到的效果更神奇。

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