FALL/WINTER 2010/2011 COLLECTION
NEW VISION
新视野
A deep change is coming and it aims to transform several life philosophies.
一场深刻的变革已经到来，它要改变我们的生活理念。
Into a metamorphosis process where the image doesn’t overlap with identity, everything is quickly changing
在这次变革的浪潮中，没有个性的重叠，一切都迅速变化着。
These demanding moments let us renewal and reorganization according to the new rules and new standards.
在这样高标准的时代，要求我们按照新的法则和标准，不断更新和重塑我们的思想。
Design (1) is a mutable creature and it comes with us across time: its fast changes adapting to the mood of time and feeds on the trends in progress.
设计（1）是变化的产物，与时俱进：它紧握着时代的脉搏和流行的趋势而迅速地变化。
New attitudes and numerous contamination producing new languages, give birth to the products with a hybrid identity.
新的观点和大量的融合碰撞出新的语言，诞生了个性混合的产品。
It’s a way of thinking about the present like a future that is being built.
这是思索现状的方式，未来正由现在建立。
Technology is the chief protagonist of new Fall/Winter
2010/11 Collection. It produces new concepts enriched
of
技术是2010/2011秋冬的新主角。它浓缩了来自过去“被遗忘”的价值，带来了新的思想。
A new aesthetic with several souls is developing in two directions:
一种新的审美正向两个方向发展
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-一方面，研究新型柔韧、实用的面料以及使衣服合身的特殊功能，和特殊效果、特殊整理和特殊操作。
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Hand made is the drive of creativity.
Decorations and handcrafted knowledge are changing thanks to technology on an industrial scale.
装饰品和手工艺技术由于规模化生产技术而改变。
We aspire to perfect technology together with high quality that in the past only belonged to hand made products.
我们渴求xx的技术和高品质结合的产品，这在过去只能由手工制造。
The avant-garde movements (futurists (2) as Fathers of the modern age) in the beginning of the last century, found their ideology on the technological application able to link together art and industry, shape and rule, creativity and standard to aim for renewal (without passed heritages)
先锋派（未来派艺术家（2）是摩登时代的鼻祖）上世纪初在技术应用上建立了他们的体系，为了使艺术和产业、造型和规则、创造力和标准化能够重组联系在一起（不需要传承）从而获得不断地更新。
But the futurists of the new millennium can’t avoid reworking the past!
但是，未来派艺术家在新世纪无可避免要重塑过去！
Inside time lives our story.
时光记录着我们的往事。
Shape became magma: deformations and distortions, curves, elliptical, cellular, molecular shapes.
形状变得模糊：变形和扭曲，曲线，椭圆形，蜂窝状的，分子的形状。
3D optical effects and very sophisticated materials. Flexible and post organic forms exalt functions and quality demanding stylized bodies appointed to sports and fitness.
三维光学效应和{jd0}面料。柔韧的有机物提升了织物的功能和质量要求，赋予运动和健身服装更多风格。
The body freely moves into the space; “thin waist” is the central point.
身体自由进入空间；“瘦腰”是中心点。
The sweetness of the hyper feminine is never ending as it slides a turn the body, it covers us like a fragile “powdered” cloud.
甜蜜的女强人正渐渐成为主流，xx退出舞台，它笼罩着我们就像一朵粉状的云。
Also the attitude to the luxury is reinterpreted with different meanings: it could show the achievement of a “status”, sometimes with a conscious ostentation, or it could simply research quality excellence, style, class, deep culture.
奢华被重塑为不同的含义：可以表现“身份”，偶尔有意识的自我炫耀，或仅仅追求{zy1}的质量、款式、高雅或浓厚的文化。
But we feel that nowadays the true “luxury” is having space and time to devote.
如今，我们感触到的真正的“奢华”是对时间和空间的奉献。
Society of “sharing and consideration” transforms the “consumer society”. The re-found feeling of “collective value” gives man the primary role.
“共享和关怀”改变了“消费社会”。重新找到“集体的价值”所赋予人的基本角色。
Modern attitude is also accepted as normal the “extreme situations”. The concept of extreme rules the future trends.
现代社会接受了“极端”。极端的概念将统治未来的趋势。
In the new Winter 2010/2011 Collection the important thing is to mix opposite concepts, building several new combinations.
在新的2010/2011年秋冬发布会中，最重要的是混合对立的概念，在混合对立的基础上再建立新的组合。
Our rational society and hyper programmed looks for irrational, it elaborates the imperfect and the imaginary in a game of mystery and discovery.
我们理性和高度程序化的社会寻求着非理性，因为它用神秘和探索的方式诠释了不xx和虚幻的概念。
Not only dreams and fables, with mysterious, smoky and dusty colours like vanishing illusions, but also religious salvation, mysterious worlds, grim spaces that hug us to the point of suffocation.
神秘的、烟雾弥漫的、尘土般色彩的梦想和寓言，就像消失的幻觉，就连宗教的救赎、玄妙的世界、冷酷的空间也让我们达到窒息的程度。
These are the “nocturnal” influences that take inspiration from the Gothic, the obscure side of the “classic”, the reason, the modern.
这些“夜”的灵感来自哥特式，模糊的“经典”、理智和现代。
To amaze and reassure at the same time! 令人惊讶的同时，让人打消疑虑！
Chic and shock is the winning couple of the new Fall/Winter 2010/11 Collection and the fashion is a subversive and prestigious game between modernity and tradition.
高雅和惊艳是这次新的2010/2011秋冬发布会的一对关键词。其创造的时尚是在现代和传统之间的一场颠覆性和令人敬仰的尝试。
Design is to fashion as fashion is to change. A race for renewal at high speeds.
设计即时尚，时尚即变化。设计是对于创新速度的竞赛。
Newness is the key word!
Newness stimulates acquisitions according to market requirements ands spurs curiosity. Newness has an irresistible charm!
根据市场需求和好奇心的驱动，新颖刺激购买行为，新颖具有无法抗拒的魅力！
So let see the NEWNESS taken from the wind of the new “attitudes” for the next Fall/Winter 2010/11 Collection:
让我们通过下一季2010/11秋冬流行趋势发布会的气息来看{zx1}的“趋势”：
1)
新活力
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新链接
3)
新反讽
4)
新幻影
1°
THEME:
Future aesthetic: rhythms, vibrations, and expression of freedom.
未来审美：韵律、视幻效果和自由表达。
KEY WORDS: movement, rhythm, innovation.
关键词：运动、韵律、创新
Observing the moving body: dance, gym, choreography and performance: expression of freedom and lightness.
观察运动的躯体：舞蹈、体操、舞蹈和表演：自由而轻盈。
Futurist inspiration with great importance to the visual sense of velocity; simultaneity of movements: a continuous innovation of image.
对速度的视觉形象而言，未来派艺术家的灵感极为重要；一系列动作同时发生：形成一个连续革新的影像。
The process of speed is abstracted increasing the endless trajectories.
速度的过程被抽象成渐增的、永无止境的轨迹。
New trajectories and searching perspectives, movements and gestures able to modify, distort and deform.
新的轨迹和可修改的xx图、动作和姿势，扭曲着，变形着。
Thanks to the new future aesthetic, the human body communicates with the universe and it frees a vast range of emotions passing through the skin.
由于新的未来审美，人类的躯体与天地万物相通，通过皮肤释放一系列情感。
COLOURS色彩
Modulated colours from skin pink and paler shades to a more intense mauve.
调制出的颜色从肤色粉和浅黑色到更强烈的淡紫色。
Black and a contrast range of
黑色和具有强烈反差的“突破”色系创造出充满生气的韵律。
MATERIALS, PATTERNS AND TREATMENTS面料、花型和整理
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- choreographic and acrobatic gym.
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织物压皱，类似“视幻效果”扭曲的面料。
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STRONG POINTS要点
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2°
THEME:
Transformation of industrial materials. Importance of new ecological values.
转变工业面料。体现生态价值的重要性。
KEY WORDS: TO TRANFORM, TO AMAZE, TO TREAT
关键词：转变、使人惊奇、整理技术。
The silence: an urban space of coal shades.
On the ruins of an old yard rust is everywhere and the oxidation gives rare beautiful colours to the materials. “Traces of story” where nature, heedless of neglect, repossess its spaces.
废墟之上，古老庭院的锈迹斑斑，氧化效果赋予面料罕见的极好的颜色。“故事的源点”在于被忽略的自然元素重新获得了发挥的空间。
A new regenerated, fascinating and poetic world rises from past and future combination.
新生，迷人而富有诗意的世界来自过去和未来的结合。
Unknown associations, oxidation, rust and the brightness of new high technological metals.
对于未知事物的联想，氧化、锈迹和发亮的金属材料。
Special alloys: varnished or satiny alloy with soft and refined colour modulations.
特殊合金：漆皮或经过色彩调制并且光滑柔软的合金。
COLOURS色彩
A range of sophisticated nuance, neutral coloured, vegetal and metallic greys from pale aluminium to tin bronze changing through time with oxidized and rusty shadows.
一系列微妙的色彩，中性色，从灰铝色到锡青铜色随时间氧化的锈迹阴影中提取的植物灰和银灰色。
MATERIALS, PATTERNS AND TREATMENTS面料、花型和整理
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STRONG POINTS要点
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3°
THEME:
A collage of different ages mixed together with irony.
将不同时代的嘲讽混合在一起的一幅拼贴画
KEY WORDS: ODDNESS, IRONY, FANTASY
关键词：古怪的，讽刺的，幻想。
To transform High/Tech Renaissance or Baroque/Rock, let’s play with rococo suggestions; zoom in on details with irony and a little kitsch taste.
改变文艺复兴盛期或巴罗克风格/摇滚风格，我们考虑洛可可的提议，放大讽刺或少许矫饰。
To create a non conventional and incredibly “trifle” environment, the illusion of luxury and the art of ironic and contemporary fiction.
建造一个非传统的难以置信的“嬉耍”的环境，xx的幻想和反讽的艺术以及当代的虚构。
A mix of decorative expressions of different ages, decoration, stucco and porcelain, suggestions to reinterpret.
用各种各样的装饰表达不同的年龄，装饰品、粉刷、瓷器，重新诠释的细微迹象。
COLOURS色彩
Varnished and fanè by the time: precious tones from gold and Empire green to Venetian old bronze linked together with touch of fresh and acid pastels, trifle and modern.
让时间给枯叶上漆：把金黄色、帝国绿到xxx旧青铜色和生气勃勃的酸性的轻淡柔和的色彩连在一起，嬉皮又摩登。
MATERIALS, PATTERNS AND TREATMENTS面料、花型和整理
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来自于一位“伟大女性”的启发：褶裥花边，蝴蝶结，以及其他一些高雅的小饰品。<译者注：这位“伟大女性”是蓬帕杜夫人，洛可可艺术风格的倡导者 >
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珍贵挂毯方面：新的锦缎和古代提花（ 17 ° / 18 ° / 19 °秒）每秒转动17度/18度/19度。
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大花型印在未知的位置，衣袖或夹克背部、衬衣或内衬上。
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整理：故意把最珍贵的面料弄坏，上漆、xx、磨旧。
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大量的金黄色效应，纱线，{tx}印花，金色调阴影和精美的金粉。
STRONG POINTS要点
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4°
THEME:
Dark glamour: an imaginary world that comes from dream and reality.
黑暗的魅力：来自梦想和现实的一个虚幻世界。
KEY WORDS: MISTERY, CHARME, RESTLESSNESS
关键词：神秘，魔力，躁动
The irrational and imperfect comes out, space to the imagination.
来自空间和想象的非理性与不完善
An unreal world between dream and reality, remote iced and snowed terrain, mysterious spaces with a vague macabre charm, secrets and “strange things”. Improbable nature.
梦境和现实的虚幻世界，白雪皑皑冰冷的远方，神秘的空间有着模糊的惊人的魔力，秘密和“怪事”，不真实的自然。
The fashion of mystery, nocturnal suggestions.
神秘的方式，夜的暗示
“哥特式的灵感”是黑暗面经典的原因。
The dark/glamour influence the contemporary fashion.
黑暗/魅力影响了当代时尚。
COLOURS色彩
Lights into the night. A range of dark colours near black with flash of blue light and vivid accents reminiscent of flashes into the darkness.
光线照进黑夜。一系列深颜色接近黑色的闪亮的蓝光和生动的语调让人回忆起了黑夜中的闪烁。
MATERIALS, PATTERNS AND TREATMENTS面料、花型和整理
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深色基调下两种彩色不断变化的特征
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- Labyrinths, whirls and spirals.
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- Devorè on velvet and satin.
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STRONG POINTS要点
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NOTES: 注释：
1)
Nowadays the creations reveal contamination of shapes, functions
and different meanings.
The hybrid and contaminated products identity from the beginning of the Millennium is described in a “trans design” book by Jacqueline Ceresoli and Gianluca Sgalippe.
杰奎琳 Ceresoli 和吉安卢卡Sgalippe在《交融设计》一书中阐述了自新世纪以来的混合设计的概念。
The same term shows the evolution by which a supple vision of
contemporary space materializes.
Thanks to the technology the “trans design” gives shape to a flexible concept, open to several creative spurs.
由于技术的发展，“交融设计”赋予形体灵活的变化，激发了创造力。
You can recognize the contamination though the items hybrid identity, nowadays far from the functionalist logic. We have hyper-sophisticated products, with flexible, post-organic and bio technological shapes. They enforce the expressive function and the “practical” quality of the object.
We passed from the “practical design” compact and hyper-rationalist typology to the moulding of the uncertainty, by predisposing to the metamorphosis and to the amusement.
你可以通过混合的特征认识到如今已经远离机能主义者的逻辑。我们有复杂的混合产品，具有灵活的、后有机、生物技术的形状。他们强调表达功能和切合实际的质量目标。我们从“实用设计”和超理性的类型学到构建不确定的形体，从预先定型到变形再到娱乐。
The “trans design” concerns items and objects of a “liquid age”(so called it). They materialize the ambition of lightness, the technological simplification and the dream of giving shape to the innumerable possibilities of revisions.
“交融设计”关注“液体时代”（即所谓的它）。他们实现了光的充分利用，简化技术和实现无数梦想的可能。
New materials and digital design enable open, elliptical, curved shapes such as functionalist and deconstructionist deformations.
新面料和数码设计使得开放的、椭圆的、曲线型，如机能主义者和解构主义变形成为可能。
The “trans design” identifies an hyper technological “decorative and bright shape” that let cellular, molecular and technological shapes come out by going over “still live” trends typical of the 80’s symbolic design and the 90’s high tech minimalism.
“交融设计”是一种高超的设计技术，装饰和闪亮形状。使得蜂窝状、分子状和科技的形态通过“仍有生命力的”80年代的典型趋势——象征设计和90年代高科技{zd1}纲领表达出来。
The design lives and regenerates through the desire of newness.
对新颖的渴望是设计的生命和新生。
Digital art, multimedia installation and new technology create new three-dimensional spaces, which second life is an expression of: it lets reality and virtuality live together in a comfortable and relaxing dimension.
数码艺术、多媒体设备和新技术创造了新的三维空间，新三维空间的第二生命就是让现实和虚拟世界自然的结合在一起。
2)
Futurism is an Italian avant-garde movement as well as cubism
and surrealism is French.
It was created by Marinetti (Il Manifesto del Futurismo) in 1914 and it finished in 1944.Marinetti, Depeo, Ball, Sironi, Rosai, Boccioni and Carra were important founders and representatives of the movement. Later on in the middle of the century, you can speak about a second futurism but it was definitely poorer.
它是由马里内特（Il Manifesto del Futurismo）于1914年创建，1944年结束的。马里内特、Depeo、鲍尔、西龙、罗莎、丘尼和卡拉都是这次运动的重要的创建者和典型代表。他们将未来主义发挥到{jz}。
Its greatest representatives were Dalì and Giacometti.
其最主要的代表，Dalì和贾科梅蒂。
Futurism ideological skeleton is:
Rebellion against past and tradition, energy and dynamism, passion for the new technology and the industrial processes, studies about the beauty understood as movement in “velocity”, innovation and invention, exalting the unknown, finally celebration of the industrial society typical aspects.
反抗过去和传统，活力和精神，追求新技术的激情和工业进程，研究美的理解，如：运动的速度、创新和发明、称赞未知，{zh1}，庆祝工业社会的典型方面。
Energy and dynamism are represented with the velocity of abstraction that multiplies the trajectory of an object or of a body in movement.
精力和活力可以表现抽象的速度，这种速度来自于夸张扩张了物体的运动。
Dynamism and simultaneity principles are well represented in a Boccioni picture entitled “Dinamismo di un corpo umano”
丘尼题为“Dinamismo di un corpo umano”的图片是活力和同步原则的代表
The futurist multiform attitude, such as the innovative capacity, makes them engaged in several fronts: from cinema to theatre, from newspapers to architecture, up to every creative artistic expression.
未来主义多种形式的看法中，像创新能力，有许多方面：从电影到戏剧，从报纸到建筑风格，直到每一种创造性的艺术表达。
Their creed put them in the centre of the world: the whole universe had to submit to the new aesthetic of the future.
他们坚信自己处于世界中心：整个宇宙都符合未来新美学。
3)
Nowadays luxury has got several meanings:
1.THE SILENCE OF LUXURY
It’s dedicated to people who always live the
luxury.
It means class and style; obviously a high end way of live, for few people that always enjoy a privileged social status and have a culture of it.
意味着等级和格调；显然是一种xx的生活方式，少数人总是享受特权的社会身份和文化修养。
This luxury doesn’t comunicate, it simply exists. It’s got the continuity from this invisibility.
In the textile and garments market it comes out though very high quality materials as well as in high end tailoring.
xx并不复杂，它简单的存在着。以一种看不见的方式延续下来。在纺织服装市场以高质量的面料和裁剪表现出来。
2.THE NOISE OF LUXURYxx的声音
It's a vast and remunerative market even with high prices. It’s the life style of the “new rich” who are looking for things as symbols of a reached social status. Rarely the real historic and qualitative value is perceived.
这是一个巨大的高额利润回报的市场，甚至价格高的离谱。这是“新富阶层”的生活方式，他们寻找达到社会身份的象征。历史的和定性的价值很少被人所感知。
Big industrial groups working in the luxury market use these strategies. Show off the product and exalt the luxury.
产业阶层使用这些战略为xx品市场工作，炫耀产品和夸大xx。
This phenomenon is going to decline.
3.THE LUXURY OF “SO MUCH”
It’s a false, standardized, displayed, promoted luxury, like that of Duty-free and perfume shops. Certainly a little flashy.
这是一个假象，标准化，陈列，推动xx品，就像免关税的商品和香水商店。无疑有点华而不实。
Basic theme is the standardized identification with the image proposed by brand ‘s adverts. High but affordable prices.
基本主题是标准化品牌广告上提议的形象。高昂但是负担得起的价格。
4.THE LUXURY OF “NOT MUCH”
We have to talk about supreme luxuries such as “space and time” appreciated by all of people that don’t like “expensive and visible “luxury.
许多人并不喜欢昂贵和有形的xx，我们不得不讨论他们所推崇的“时间和空间”的极度xx。
Ethic, human reasons, sense of global and social justice... or simply personal relax pushed us to refuse the convulsive rhythms (running, arriving, or just being there) for a more simple life with “less” things.
伦理，人性的理性，全球和社会公正的感受…或只是个人的放松，让我们拒绝令人抽搐的紧张节奏。跑步、冲刺或只是呆在那，过一种更简单的生活。
The principal human characteristic is the “temporariness” and nowadays we know that the true luxury is having time and space to dedicate to the others and ourselves.
人类的主要特点是“暂时性”，现在我们所知道的真正意义上的xx品是用时间和空间去奉献给他人和自己的。
It’s important to transform the “consumer society” into a
new
重要的是要转变“消费社会”进入到一个新的“共享的社会” 。重要的是把人作为社会的主角而非商品。
5.TIME
Ovidio said: “time eat things”; Shakespeare: “time is a voracious cormorant.
奥维迪奥说“时间吞噬一切”;莎士比亚说“时间是贪婪的。”
The important thing is to have a meta, a landing place to reach.
重要的是有一个标签，一个着陆地点。
Time is progressive: it’s the space necessary to built the future.
时间是不断发展的：它是建立未来的必要空间。
Inside time lives our story.
We have to reflect, it’s seems that life slips thru our hands, but it happens in two ways: like sand in the wind or like seeds spread throughout the world!
我们必须思考，生命似乎从我们指尖流逝，或像风中的细沙，或像散落全世界的种子
4)
Fashion embraces the dark and tenebrous side of
Gothic.
时尚接受哥特式黑暗的一面
“哥特式黑色的魅力”是瓦莱丽斯蒂尔举办的哥特式风格影响展的名字，这次展览在08年9月5日-09年2月21日在纽约举行，内容是关于哥特式风格对同时代时尚的影响。
It’s a recurrent phenomenon. It’s quite recent. It has been born in England at the end of the 70’s, and in the first part of the 80’s it reaches the highest expressive moment through the post punk.
这是一个周期性的现象。这是一个全新的事实。它在英国产生，结束时是在70年代，并通过后朋克现象在{dy}部分的80年代达到{zg}表现时期。
From that period the designers start to feel the influence. Sometimes they look at these “urban tribes” and their way of dress, sometimes they explore the historic-aesthetic sources such as black widow’s macabre glamour, Victorian cult for mourning garments and jewels, horn-shaped amulets and accessories like instrument of torture but revealing a strong erotic sensuality charge.
从这一时期，设计师开始受到影响。有时他们关注这些“城市部落”和他们的穿衣方式，有时他们探索的历史美学的源头，如黑寡妇可怕的魅力，维多利亚教派悼念的服装和珠宝，喇叭状辟邪物及像刑具的配件，却展现出强大的xx冲击。
Inspiration swept over old, fantastic and seducing geographies: mysterious Middle Age rich of fairies and witches, fantastic ruined worlds, sometimes with romantic touches such as cuts, tears, lacerations. Fantastic creatures embracing suffocation and morbid, a lot of crosses.
灵感席卷着过去，荒诞：神秘的中世纪充斥着精灵和女巫，荒诞摧毁了世界，间或富有浪漫色彩的画法如：削减、泪光、划破等。荒诞的生灵令人窒息和病态，以及许多十字架
It’s a kind of “anti-classic” allure and it’s clear that gothic
is the dark side of classic, reason and modernity. Stylists as Mc.
Queen, Galliano, Yamamoto and Gaultier interpret the gothic style
with details from the original stylistic origins: sharp neck, bat
sleeves on black dresses, blood red, rotten green, phantom white.
Moreover, pearl neckline, silver thorn, edges with roses, brambles.
Mourning with hat-veil, unknown and aggressive matching with
leather and organza, voile and taffeta, a lot of drapes, plissè and
over impositions.
这是一种“反经典”的诱惑力，哥特式是经典的黑暗面，现代而理性。设计师如Mc. Queen，加里亚诺，Yamamoto和高提耶从细节上解读哥特式风格：尖领、黑色连衣裙上的蝙蝠袖、血红色、腐烂的绿色、幽灵白。还有，珍珠色领口、银刺、玫瑰边缘和荆棘。配有帽纱的丧服，……皮革和纱，薄纱和塔夫绸，大量的褶皱。
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