一、鞋子种类(shoes variety)

Athletic shoes /Sports shoes运动鞋 Casual shoes便鞋 Hiking shoes/Travelling shoes旅游鞋 Slipper拖鞋 Sandals凉鞋 Boots马靴 Work boots工作鞋 Axido沙滩鞋 Canvas帆布鞋 Sport boots运动鞋 Pumps高跟鞋 Climbing shoes登山鞋 Football shoes足球鞋 Jogging shoes慢跑鞋 Basketball shoes篮球鞋 Canvas帆布鞋 Casualshoes便鞋 Pumps高跟鞋 Leisure休闲鞋 Tennis shoes网球鞋 Baseball shoes棒球鞋 Aerobic shoes舞蹈鞋

二.部位名称(Location name)

upper vamp鞋面 counter后套 binding滚边 last 楦头 top line鞋口 sole edge底边 seams缝合处 bows 饰片 stain染色 adhered粘贴 bumper包头片 steel toe钢头 eyelet and lace鞋眼带 embroidery 电绣 quarter鞋腰(身) Tongue鞋舌 Insole中底 Weit 沿条 Ornament饰物 Toe box头套 Siping切沟 Soles底台 Zigzag{wn} Eye stay眼套 Collar领口 Top 面线 Back strap后吊带 Outsole大底 Mid sole-EVA EVA中插 Open toe鞋头开口 Open back鞋后开口 Lace loop穿环 Reinforcements补强 Hand sews手缝马克 Reinforce tape补强带 Inside corners内弯角 Insole board中底纸板 Textile lining布料衬里 Plat forms包边中底台 Wovens/weaves编织类 Lining内里 Heel 脚跟 Foxing护条 Eye let 鞋眼片 Overlay饰片 Socks鞋垫 Box toe鞋衬里 Print印刷 Perforation冲孔 Toe cap鞋头 Toe part鞋头部 Bobbin底线 Bar加强线 Heat sealed熔封鞋的一搬缺点Defect) Vamp wrinking鞋面皱纹 Stitching not even车不平均 Tricot shows up特丽可得露出来

Wrapping not even攀帮不均匀 Shank too loose铁心太松 Heel not straight后套不正   Sole come off底脱胶   Wrong pattern 纸板错误 Wrong material材料错误 Wrong cutting裁断错误   Toe broken down鞋头凹陷   Color variation色差   Wrong last 楦头错误 Wrong colour颜色错误 Damaged upper鞋面破损 Not in pair不配双 Crooked back stay 后套歪斜 Crooked upper鞋面弯曲 Crooked屈曲,不平顺 Vamp length鞋头大小 Lasting off center攀歪 Sole laying not proper(centered)贴底不正确 Back strap too high(low,long,short)后拉带太高 Abrasion磨损 Stitching not on the mark不照记号齿车 Angle on insole中底发角 Vamp open up鞋面掀开 Wrapping not tight攀帮不紧 Shank not straight铁心不正 Cementing comes off脱胶 Outsole not smooth大底不平 Gore too weak松紧带弹性不佳 Cement on heel鞋眼沾胶 Cementing no good接着力不佳 Cleanness not enough清洁度不佳 Vamp split off 鞋面爆开 Color not matching色差 Loose thread脱线 Broken thread断线 Trun yellow变黄 Turn dark变黑 Pinch in 缩进去 Flatten变平 Rough粗糙 x-ray透痕 smeary污染 hairy 起毛 gaping 缝隙 sole adhesion大底欠胶   chip碎屑 dirty 脏的 get mildew发霉 back height 后跟高度 over cemented溢胶 bottom dirty大底不洁

皮料制造流程

   wet operation 湿场作业     trimming and sorting 削整及分皮 soaking   浸水     fleshing   削肉     unhairing   脱毛     bating   酵解软化     picking   浸酸     tanning   鞣制     wringing   挤水     splitting and shaving 起层及削里 retanning, coloring 再鞣,染色 setting out   张皮     dry operation 干场作业     drying   干燥     conditioning 回湿     staking   铲软     buffing   磨皮     finshing   整饰     measuring   量皮     grading   分级                 a    alligator   鳄鱼皮 也称为crocodile皮 antelope leather 羚羊皮革          b    buckskin   鹿绒皮     buffalo hides 水牛皮     buffalo hides, salted, wet 盐湿水牛皮 bullhide   公牛皮     butt-branded steers 臀部有烙印阉牛皮 butt leather   臀皮          c    cabreta   卡利大皮     calf leather   小牛皮     calfskin   小牛皮     calfskin, with the hair on, dyed 染色小牛皮 camel leather 骆驼皮革     cape skin   开普皮     carpincho   河马皮     cattle hide   大牛皮     cattle leather, dyed 染色牛皮     cattle leather, metallized 烫金属牛皮 cattle leather, patent 漆牛皮     chamois-dressed leather 油鞣皮(雪米皮) chicago wet-salted hides 芝加哥湿盐皮 colorado steerhide 科罗拉多阉牛皮 cordovan   马臀皮     covers, file leather 公文夹用皮革 cowhide   母牛皮     cowhides, salted, wet 盐湿黄牛皮 crocodile leather 鳄鱼皮          d    deer leather 鹿皮革     deerskin   鹿皮     deerskin, chamois-dressed 鹿皮 doeskin   羊绒皮     doeskin, chamois-dressed 油鞣牡鹿皮 dried   皮干          flesher   羊榔皮     fox fur skin, dressed 硝制狐皮     fox fur skin, dyed 染色狐皮     fur skins, tanned or dressed 鞣制或硝制毛皮       goat leather 山羊皮     goat leather, dyed 染色山羊皮 goat leather, metallized 烫金属山羊皮 goatskin   山羊皮     goatskin, dyed 染色山羊皮           hairsheep   直毛羊皮---绵羊的毛呈直条波浪型头发一样 heavy cows 重量母牛皮 heavy native cows 重量无烙印母牛皮 heavy native heifers 重量无烙印小母牛皮 heavy native steers 重量无烙印阎牛皮 heifer   母童牛皮     hide   大件皮     hide, buffalo, dehaired, tanned 水牛皮 hide, cattle or cow, dehaired, tanned 牛皮(黄牛皮)   hide, ox, dehaired, tanned 牡牛皮 hide, steer, dehaired, tanned 牡犊皮 hide, zebra, dehaired, tanned 班玛皮 holster, pistol, leather   xx皮套 horsehide 马皮 horse leather, dyed   烫金属马皮 horse leather, patent   漆马皮           inner hide, cow and buffalo dried 黄牛, 水牛内皮       kangaroo   袋鼠皮     kidskin skin 小羊皮          lambskin, chamois-dressed 油鞣仔羊皮 leather of sheep and lambskins 绵羊及仔绵羊皮 leather auxiliaries   皮革助剂 leather of goat and kidskins 山羊及仔山羊皮 leather sole   皮底 leather upper   皮面 leather, buffalo   水牛革 leather, calf, chrome-tanned colored and polished 铬鞣染色打光小牛皮 leather, cattle or cow   牛革 leather, crust, calf   硬小牛皮 leather, curried, calf   鞣制小牛皮 leather, kid skin   仔山羊皮 leather, ox 牡牛革 leather, sole, calf   制鞋底用小牛皮 leather, vamp, calf   制鞋面小牛皮 leather, horse or equine 马革 leather, mule   骡革 leather, steer   牡犊革 leather, zebra   斑马革 leopard fur skin, dressed 硝制豹皮 leopard fur skin, dyed   染色豹皮 light cows 轻量母牛皮 light native cows   轻量无烙印母牛/阉牛皮   lizard leather   蜥蜴皮 lizard skin 蜥蜴皮=蜥蜴类动物的皮       marten fur skin, dressed 硝制貂皮 marten fur skin, dyed   染色貂皮 macha 摩卡皮 muntafac fur skin, dressed 硝制羌皮 muntafac fur skin, dyed 染色羌皮           ostrich 鸵鸟皮           parchment-dressed leather 羊皮纸型熟皮 patent and metallized leather 漆皮及硬化剂 peccary 野猪皮 pelt 生毛皮 pheasant 鳗鱼皮 pickled hides   浸酸牛皮 pickled lamb pelts, run   浸酸羔羊皮 pigskin lining leather   猪里皮 pigskin upper leather   猪面皮 pigskin split leather   猪榔皮 pigskin 原料盐皮 pigskin nubuck upper leather 猪磨面皮 pigskins leather, tanned 加工猪皮 pony skin 小马皮 pony skin, dyed   染色小马皮       queensland hides   昆士兰皮           reconstituted and artificial leather containing leather or leather fibre 再生&人造皮革 release paper 离型纸                shark leather 鲨鱼皮     sharkskin   鲨鱼皮     shearling   毛羊皮     sheep and lambskins with the wool 带毛之绵羊及其羔羊皮   sheep and lambskins without the wool 不带毛之绵羊及其羔羊皮 sheep leather 绵羊皮     sheep leather, dyed 染色绵羊皮 sheep leather, metallized 烫金属绵羊皮 sheep leather, patent   漆绵羊皮 sheepskin 硝制绵羊皮 sheepskin, chamois-dressed 油鞣羊皮 sheepskin. with hair on, dyed 染色绵羊皮 skin 小件皮 skin, bird, with feathers removed, ranned 去毛加工之鸟皮   skin, rhinceros 犀牛皮     skiver   薄羊面皮     snakeskins, dried 干蛇皮     snakeskins, tanned 加工蛇皮     split leather 榔皮, 二层皮 steerhide   阉牛皮     suede   反毛皮     swine leather, dyed 染色猪皮     swine leather, enamelled 上釉猪皮 swine leather, metallized 烫金猪皮           tanning auxiliaries   鞣革助剂 tanning extracts   鞣革剂 tassels, leather   皮革饰缝 tiger fur skin, dressed   硝制虎皮 titanium 钛白粉 trimmings, leather   皮制饰品           upper leather of cattle and calf 牛及小牛之面皮 upper leather of goat   山羊面皮 upper leather of kid   仔山羊