原文：
THE basics of the water system in a home are easy to understand. After water enters the house, the supply line splits into a cold and a hot line. The hot line starts with cold water, but it is routed to a heater where the water is heated to a temperature of about 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Both lines are routed to fixtures in the bathroom, kitchen, laundry room, and so on, where they may tapped for water. At the end of each line, fixtures allow you to draw water on demand. These are the most familiar valves in the system, but throughout the system others are placed in strategic locations so you control the flow of water anywhere in the house. As long as the plumbing system is working perfectly, there is no need to concern yourself with these valves. But should a leak or malfunction occur, it might be necessary to locate a specific valve to shut off the water. Consider the main shut-off valve, for example. This valve controls the water going to all the pipes in the house. If a supply pipe leaks or bursts, this is the valve to close to keep water from feeding into that pipe. The main shut-off valve is situated close to the point where the water enters the house, by the water meter (Many newer homes now have shut-off valves on both sides of the water meter.) If you don't have a basement, look in the crawl space or along a ground-floor wall next to the street. Near the main shut-off valve there may be another valve, called the water-pressure valve. Unlike the other valves, this one has an adjustment screw, not a handle, on top. The water supplied by the municipal water supplier is usually delivered at around 40 to 55 pounds per square inch. Sometimes, however, it may be as high as 80. Pressures above 60 can strain the pipes, causing them to burst, or they could cause a water ''hammer'' when faucets are turned on and off. The adjustment screw on the pressure valve can be turned to regulate the water pressure coming into the house. Look for the pressure valve on the house side of the water meter. Faucets are the familiar valves found on kitchen, bathroom and laundry-room sinks. Plumbing codes now require an additional valve, called a shut-off valve, for each hot and cold line supplying a fixture. These are usually found under the sink. They make it easy to shut off the water to a specific fixture without affecting the water in other lines. This is convenient if you need to repair or replace a sink faucet. Shut-off valves are designed to be left in either the fully open or closed position, and they will often leak if turned half way. Some do-it-yourselfers will mistake a leaking shut-off valve as a malfunction and replace it, when simply turning the handle to the open position would stop the leak. If you have a refrigerator with an ice maker or an instant cold-water dispenser, you may also have a saddle valve attached to the cold-water line. Unlike other valves that are threaded onto the supply pipes, the saddle valve is attached to the pipe with a clamp. A hollow metal spike is pushed through the pipe wall to tap into the water line. Strictly speaking, the saddle valve is not a valve at all, since it is not used to control water flow; this is done through the appliance. Saddle valves are not durable and have a high failure rate. They should be checked periodically for leaks and replaced if they show signs of deterioration. Unfortunately, this is not always easy because they are often situated in remote places, like behind a cabinet or appliance. Also, they are not usually controlled by an individual shut-off valve, so you may have to go to the main shut-off valve and turn off the water to the whole house in order to replace it. Another type of valve is the hose bib. This is simply a faucet, usually on a laundry or utility sink or on an exterior wall. It is called a hose bib because the faucet spout is threaded to accept a hose fitting. Some plumbing codes require hose bibs to be equipped with a vacuum breaker. This is a device that interrupts any siphonage that might occur if a vacuum occurs in the water-supply line. Vacuums are caused by a sudden drop in water pressure, and they can create a siphon action that will pull contaminated water (if the end of the hose is in a pool or a water-filled sink) back into the clean-water supply. Drawing (Edward R. Lipinski)
原文来自：http://www.nytimes.com/1999/10/03/nyregion/home-clinic-tracking-a-leak-check-water-valves.html

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译文：主切断阀
在家庭供水系统的基础知识很容易理解。当水进入房子，供应线分裂成一冷一热线。该热线开始用冷水，但拨号到水加热到大约140摄氏度的温度加热器。这两条生产线均改为固定在浴室，厨房，洗衣房等，他们可能对水的利用。 在每一行结束时，装置可让您利用水的需求。这些是系统中最熟悉的阀门，而且在整个系统中的其他在重要地点摆放，使您在任何地方控制家里的水流量。只要水管系统运作非常，没有必要关注这些阀门自己。但是，一旦泄漏或故障发生时，可能有必要找到一个具体阀关闭水。 主要考虑切断阀，例如。此阀控制水将所有的房子管道。如果供水管漏水或爆裂，这是阀门关闭，以防止该管道将水喂养。主要切断阀位于靠近点水进入屋内的水表，（许多较新的家庭现在已经关闭阀门上的水表两侧。）如果您没有地下室，查看抓取空间或沿地下的墙旁边的街道。 靠近主切断阀有可能是另一个阀门，称为水压力阀。不像其他阀门，这其中有一个调整螺丝，而不是处理，在最前面。由市政供水商提供的食水通常提供大约40至55磅每平方英寸。但是，有时可能高达80。 60岁以上的压力可以应变管，使它们爆裂，或者也可以造成水锤'' ''水龙头时开启和关闭。关于压力阀调节螺丝，可以转向调节水压进了屋来。寻找对水表房子的一侧压力阀。 水龙头在厨房，浴室，洗衣间汇找到熟悉的阀门。水暖代码现在需要一个额外的阀门，叫做关闭阀门，每个冷热线提供一个夹具。这些通常是在水槽下找到。他们可以很容易地关闭，而不会影响其他线的用水特定夹具。这是方便，如果您需要维修或更换水槽龙头。 切断阀的设计都是建立在xx打开或关闭左边的位置，他们往往会泄漏，如果把一半的时间。一些喜欢自己动手将错误一泄漏切断阀故障，作为取代它时，只需转动手柄开启位置，将停止泄漏。 如果你有一个具有制冰机或即时冷饮水机冰箱，你也会有一马鞍阀连接到冷水线。不像是到供水管螺纹其他阀门，马鞍阀相连的管道钳。阿空心金属穗推通过管壁进军水线。严格来说，马鞍阀是不是一个阀门，因为它不是用来控制水流，这是通过设备进行。 鞍阀门不耐用，具有较高的故障率。他们应定期检查和更换的泄漏，如果他们显示出恶化的迹象。不幸的是，这并不总是容易的，因为它们往往位于偏远的地方，比如后面的内阁或设备。此外，他们通常无法控制个别关闭阀门，所以你可能要返回主切断阀，并关闭水整幢房子，以取代它。 另一种类型是阀门软管围兜。这根本是一个通常在洗衣或者实用新型水龙头，水槽，或在外墙。它被称为喉嘴，因为水龙头喷出的线程接受软管配件。有些管道规范要求软管围兜能与真空断路器设备。这是一种装置，虹吸中断任何可能出现一个真空，如果在供水行中出现。真空是由于在水压力突然下降，他们可以创建一个虹吸管的行动，拉被污染的水（如果软管在游泳池或一水充满汇）到清洁供水回来。

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