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But those that think that have probably been
watching too many Wong Kar-Wai movies, as this image could not be
farther from the truth. Mahjong parlors are welcoming places and a
great space for social activity. The only thing is, if you want to
join the janso club, you'll have to learn how to play
mahjong.
With over 8 million players playing in over
10,000 parlors across the country (and countless playing at home),
mahjong is the most popular table game in Japan. "Mahjong is a
great game and Japanese people love it," says Takunori Kajimoto,
noted mahjong author and manager of the Mahjong Museum in
Chiba.
'Ningen kankei,' interpersonal relations, is
a crucially important part of Japanese society. Since nearly all
senior male company workers in Japan have played mahjong at one
point in their life, learning the game can be your key to getting
some face time with the big shots in the top ranks.
Gambling in Japan has long been associated
with organized crime, but gangs pulled out of the mahjong world
years ago. Most big parlors nowadays know that keeping customers
loyal means keeping them safe, so expect well-lit interiors and
staff watching out for any funny business.
More and more parlors are also offering
student and sub-student level rates, so if you're nervous about
your game you won't be losing more than ¥1,500 an hour. There are
even parlors that cater to beginners. One that has been known to be
very foreigner-friendly is Shibuton (Dogenzaka 2-10-12 3F,
Shibuya-ku, tel 03 5456 8158, www.shibuton.jp).
Recently, people in the mahjong world have
been promoting 'healthy mahjong,' a special way of playing aimed at
keeping the minds of the elderly ticking. You may have your doubts,
but momentum has snowballed, and the movement has gathered
government funding for its national tournaments. Now during
retirement you can claim that your addiction to the game is a
neurological treatment.
Want to see Hitler and the Pope duke it out
at the mahjong table? Only mahjong aficionados are able to
understand the bi-weekly manga serial "Kindai-Mahjong," which has
some of the most entertaining -- and ridiculous -- comics in the
world. Pick one up at your local convenience store.
Yes, a mahjong museum exists in Japan, and
it's the only mahjong museum in the world. The museum is located an
easy day-trip from Tokyo near Kazusa-ichinomiya on the Sotobo line.
They even have a picture of the emperor playing mahjong. E-mail the
manager Takunori Kajimoto at kaji.mahjong@gmail.com in advance for
a personal tour. (Nakabara 1-2, Misaki-machi, Izumi-shi, Chiba
Prefecture, tel. 03 3264 1576, 10am-5pm, closed Mondays)
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